Watch-Oid

First of all, don't wind it yet. If it hasn't run in years the oils will have dried out and you could damage the movement. Turn it over and look at the case back. Is there a name stamped or engraved? Any numbers? Open the case back if you can -- some screw off, some pop off with a thin blade, carefully. The movement inside tells the real story. Take clear photos of the dial, case back, and movement, and upload them here. Your grandad's watch might be worth twenty quid or two thousand -- but either way, it's worth knowing its story.

Every 5-7 years for a modern mechanical watch, though some newer movements claim 8-10 year intervals. The oils inside degrade over time, even if the watch is running well. Think of it like a car service -- it runs fine until it doesn't, and by then the damage is expensive. Always take it to a proper watchmaker, not a high-street battery shop. They'll strip it, clean every component ultrasonically, re-oil, regulate, and test water resistance. Expect to pay around 150-300 quid for a standard service, more for complications.

The honest answer: unless you open it, you can't be 100% sure from photos alone. But there are strong indicators. Check the weight -- a real Rolex feels substantial. Look at the cyclops date magnifier -- it should magnify 2.5x. The second hand should sweep smoothly, not tick. The crown logo on the dial should be crisp and centred under a loupe. The serial and model numbers between the lugs should be deeply engraved. But the only way to be certain is to open the case back and examine the movement. Upload photos here and I'll give you my honest assessment -- I've authenticated thousands.

The Seiko Presage line. Beautiful dials, reliable 4R35 or 6R35 movements, exhibition case backs so you can watch the movement work, and prices from around 200-400 quid. You get genuine Japanese craftsmanship, a proper mechanical movement, and something you'll be proud to wear. If you want something even more affordable, the Orient Bambino is gorgeous for under 150. And if you want the perfect digital, the Casio F-91W is under fifteen quid and it's genuinely iconic.

Not necessarily. If it's a quartz watch, it probably just needs a new battery -- though leave it too long and the old battery can leak and damage the movement. If it's automatic, it may have run out of power reserve. Pick it up, give it about 30-40 gentle rotations of the crown clockwise to wind it, and set it going. If it still won't run, the oils may have dried out and it needs a service. If you hear a faint ticking but the hands don't move, a wheel may have come loose. Either way, a watchmaker can diagnose it properly. Don't shake it or bang it -- you'll make things worse.

Sapphire crystal is synthetic corundum -- second hardest material after diamond. It's incredibly scratch-resistant but can shatter on a sharp impact. Mineral crystal is tempered glass -- cheaper, easier to replace, more shatter-resistant, but scratches more readily. Acrylic/Hesalite (found on vintage watches and the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch) scratches easily but can be polished out with Polywatch. Each has its place. I wouldn't put sapphire on a beater watch and I wouldn't expect mineral on a luxury piece. Vintage collectors often prefer Hesalite for the warm, domed look.

Water resistance ratings are tested under static pressure, not real-world conditions. 30m means splash-proof, not swimming. 50m means brief immersion. 100m means proper swimming. 200m+ means diving. And crucially -- these ratings degrade over time. The gaskets dry out, the crown tube wears. Get your water resistance tested after every service. And never, ever press the pushers (chronograph buttons) underwater unless the watch is specifically rated for it. I've seen more water damage from "water resistant" watches than I can count.

Start small. A decent loupe (10x is standard), a case back opener (both friction ball and wrench type), a set of precision screwdrivers, tweezers (antimagnetic), a dust blower, and a watch holder or movement cushion. Don't buy the cheapest kit on Amazon -- the screwdrivers will strip on first use. Invest in Bergeon or equivalent quality if you're serious. And the most important tool of all: patience. A rushed job is a botched job. Every time.

Common problem, easy fix. If your mechanical watch is suddenly running fast -- gaining minutes per day instead of seconds -- it's probably magnetised. Phone cases, laptop speakers, magnetic clasps on bags, even fridge magnets can do it. You need a demagnetiser. Hold the watch near it, press the button, and slowly pull the watch away. Takes about 10 seconds. Your watchmaker will do it for free (or should). You can buy a demagnetiser for under twenty quid and it's genuinely useful to have at home.

Away from direct sunlight, moisture, magnets, and extreme temperature changes. A watch box or roll is ideal -- keeps them cushioned and protected. For automatics you're not wearing regularly, you don't need a watch winder unless you have perpetual calendar complications that are painful to reset. Just wind them manually every couple of weeks to keep the oils distributed. For long-term storage, get them serviced first, then store them wound down in a dry place. And for the love of all that's holy, don't stack them on top of each other loose in a drawer.